May 10, 2011 Ndanda and Mikindani

After lunch, we got in the jeep and drove out of Ndanda. Two years ago, after our epic bargaining with the wood carver (which ended with one of the carvers coming to Joe's house to apologize) we had driven out of Ndanda. I thought that there was not a chance in hell that I would ever be back to southern Tanzania. And yet, here we were.

What I am just begining to understand after spending a day with Peace Corp workers and ex-pat's is how normal Joseph's experience was in Tanzania. These American kids are plopped down in the middle of a totally different and foreign culture, with three months of rudimentary training. And the volunteers are young and resilient and at the top of their game. They take off; they implement ideas, and teach advanced level university courses, and teach and innovate like crazy Americans. The volunteers are also energetic in exploring new places; or keeping up with all the other volunteers. It really is a powerful American community overseas; and these individuals are the face of America to the world.

President of student councils' address

The Headmaster,
The Teaching and Non-teaching Staff,
Our Visitors,
Dear Students
Ladies and gentlemen, goodmorning/goodafternoon

We have the honour to receive the presence of our beloved family of late Mwalimu Joseph chow. You passed over the oceans and rivers, mountains and valleys just to come and see us. What kind of love! We really appreciate everything you do to us even those which words cannot finish to explain.

This day, 10th May, is the day that all of us remember the end of Mwalimu Joseph Chow's journey on the earth. Late Mwalimu Joseph Chow meant everything to us, he had the great contribution to students, teachers and the whole Ndanda society. At first place we received him as a teacher, fortunately, eh came the time when we lacked the teachers of physics and mathematics. Therefore his presence played the great role in triggering academic excellence.

In fact, we can really feel the gap left by Mwalimu Joseph Chow. We miss his everything. But when we turn around and see his family, we get extremely comforted because it is like everything good he did and wished has been left in the good hands of the family. This makes us deep down feel Chow's love is with us all the time.

Once again let us say thank you for your coming and for your great contribution to our school We wish you good time in Tanzania and welcome again.

Yours,

STUDENTS OF NDANDA HIGH SCHOOL

May 10 2011 Trip to Ndanda Secondary School

Jen and her dirver Chogo picked us up at 9:30 for the drive to Ndanda. The drive only took two hours, and it was a much better drive than two years ago when we drove with Joseph's principal in the school car and the road was under repair.

We drove through the town and past Joseph's house, my heart sank. His picture on facebook is of him standing in front of the sign that stands in front of his house. In 2009 Joseph had been so proud and happy to show us around his school and his life; to be with his family and to show us his world. He had indeed thrived in a tough situation, and he knew the experience would be invaluable.

We drove to the Principal's office, where we were met the by the vice-principal, Mr. David. An assembly of the entire student body was called in the courtyard, and Mr. David, the president of the student body and the head of the FEMA club gave speeches. Ray, Jen and I also spoke. We then announced that the following students received full scholarships for the next two year:

1. Fadhli Juma Nawaje Nanyumbu (Eddie Fletcher wrote a recomendation);

2. Eurarist Morit Mkanrango Masasi

3. Nelson Omany Mnanje Nanyumboo

4. Rmadhani Saidi Chiwonge Newale

5. Castor Alfred Mangaka Nanyumubu

6. Abdallah Dadi Mikindani Mtwara

7. Ibaidi Saidi

8. Kassim S. Dadi Mnyeau Nawala

After the ceremony and the pictures, we treated the boys to a lunch at the nun's beer garden, which is quite a treat for them.

I don't think the boys really understood the implications of the award until Jen sat down with each one of them and explained in Swahili the financial details of the award. After lunch, each and every one of them effusively thanked us for the scholarship; Joseph has made their lives so much easier! Many of them had started school and still had not paid fees, they had no idea where the money would come from. Some had still not finished paying fees for their O level courses, and all this has been waying heavily on the family. In order to be at A level, they have already tested in the top 10% of Tanzania's students. These are deserving, hard working young men, who deserve a small break in life.

May 9, 2011 - Mtwara

We left the Collesium Hotel at 5:45 for a smooth ride to the airport and Precision Air flight at 7:40 to Mtwara. The heat and humidity hit you full on when you climb down the steps in the small Mtwara airport. Also, the dust and the dirt! There is a funky smell in southern Tanzania, buring something, that irritates my sinuses. A driver from the Old Boma Hotel picked us up. The Old Boma is in Mikindani, an old German port town right on the Indian Ocean. There are no banking facilities, and the buildings are in terrible disrepair. The "yacht club" has two boats in the harbor. The road up to the Old Boma is dirt and very, very lumpy. The hotel is beautifully refurbished by a British non-profit group and is still managed by volunteers who sign up for 3 to 12 month contracts. There is even a swimming pool, but the filters were not working during our stay. "Ten Degrees South" is a hotel and dive shop in Mikindani; Joseph and I had waited in the courtyard for a bjaj (a three wheeled vehicle) to take us back to Mtwara after a snorkel trip.
2 years ago, Ray had tried to get us all to go to the Mnazi Bay- Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park, but Joe was adamant about not going; why go all the way around the pennisula on bad roads when the guest house where we were staying had beautiful access to the Indian Ocean. This time, as soon as we got to the Old Boma Ray insisted on hiring a Toyota Corolla Taxi with terrible shocks come to take us out to Mnazi Bay. The roads were terrible, the snorkeling was not spectacular, but it is a very isolated beach, and the sand is beautiful. In a couple of years, when the coral has time to recover from the dynamite fishing this might be an area to come visit.
The cab driver did not speak English, and apparantly he did not believe in paying park entrance fees, as he simply refused and there was a stand off with the toll collector until we were allowed through. It was an interesting afternoon.
Met Jen Harding for dinner at the Old Boma to discuss the next day's trip to Ndanda.

Dar es salaam

Yesterday Ray and I met in London and flew down to Tanzania today. As soon as you enter the airport you know that you are in Africa. There is a unique smell, and it is hot and humid. The roads are busy with people and cars, the buildings are erratically built. The cab drivers are eager for your business, and very chatty on the way to the hotel - they want to know why you have come, and what animals you expect to see. They also expect you to bargain - which we do not do well. We paid $40 for a $22 dollar car ride. Oh well.

I was very quiet on the car ride, it hit me hard to see and smell Dar again - the last time we were here Joseph was alive, and safe and he was our guide. Tomorrow morning we go to the south. The first day we will be on our own and we will go to the beaches and snorkeling. It is a place that we never went to with Joseph, and difficult to get to - I doubt that he was ever there.

I don't think I want to be here, but I do know that I have to see all of this. This was the last place that Joseph was safe and happy - and in my day dreams I still picture him here. I think that this trip will put a closure on those dreams.

Mother's Day

We will arrive in Mtwara on mother's day. Mtwara is in the south of Tanzania, right on the Indian Ocean; beautiful but poor.

When I was little I made my Mother's day cards every year; her birthday was right around the same time of year so we could get away with only giving one gift or card some years. In healthy families Mothers day is kind of a fun day, where the kids play lip service to their appreciation for the mom, but everyone knows that the mom is appreciated every day. It is the thought that counts, but not such a huge deal. I know my boys love me and think of me - even if they can be a little self-centered sometimes.

But now that Joseph is gone, I am dreading Mother's day, especially since we'll be visiting Tanzania. Last year I was still in a fog of losing him; I still woke up thinking "Joseph is dead" and then thinking "No,no that is not possible". This year the reality has set in. Never to hear his silly laugh, or his deep voice or his reasoned thoughts again. I still wake up in the middle of the night yelling for him to be careful.

Trip to Tanzania

Tomorrow I leave for Europe, for work; and then I will meet Ray in London on Saturday for the trip to Tanzania. I feel bad because Ray has never wanted to go back to Africa to see where Joseph died, but I feel, deep down that I have to make my pilgramage. He was my oldest boy, I cannot let his passing go without my visit to the spot where he last lived. He was my boy.

Ray is coming with me, kind of against his will, but he is coming. Saturday we went biking on the North County Bike Trail (which is falling apart, many potholes and frost heaves), and Ray fell off his bike. He broke his helmet and a rib; he is in pain. So many accidents; in some you break your ribs in others you lose your life. Who decides these things?